I did a series of posts with cosmetic ingredients.  I’m consolidating all of those posts here for easy reference.  This is a list and brief definition of commonly used ingredients in cosmetic formulations. Note: allergies may occur with the use of any chemical, essential oil, herb or spice. It is advisable to test a small area of the skin prior to using the product in the shower of bath. Many of these ingredients are used in major formulations, but are becoming more available for the hobbyist and small formulator.

Albumen: Egg white. A source of pure protein. It has a soothing and tightening effect on the skin.

Algae extract: Rich in the same vital nutrients, trace elements, and amino acids present in human blood plasma, allowing it to penetrate the skin more thoroughly than most other ingredients. It speeds the elimination of toxins from cells and is a natural cellular renewal
ingredient. It also helps to nourish and remineralize the skin.

Algin: A gelatinous substance derived from seaweed. It acts as an emulsifier and thickening agent.

Allantoin: A compound that occurs naturally in wheat sprouts, tobacco seed, comfrey, and sugar beets, or it may be derived synthetically from uric acid. It is an effective healing agent that helps to promote cellular renewal, and it has soothing and softening properties.

Almond oil (sometimes called “sweet almond oil”): A nut oil high in fatty acids. Nearly colorless and, odorless, almond oil is used in soaps, moisturizers, and creams. Conditioning, emollient, softens and smoothes skin. Rich in vitamins, light, absorbs easily. Good for facial and massage oils. Short shelf life!

Aloe vera gel: A concentrated form derived from the aloe vera (true aloe) plant, one of the oldest medicinal plants known. Widely revered and used by the ancient Egyptians and Native Americans, it has remarkable healing abilities because it is a natural oxygenator (drawing and holding oxygen to the skin). For this same reason, it is one of the most effective cellular renewal ingredients available for use in cosmetics. It has a composition similar to that of human blood plasma and sea water, and because its pH is the same as human skin, it is extremely soothing and protective. It is also a natural astringent. Soothes burnt or dry skin.

Annatto: A naturally occurring red-yellow dye derived from the seeds of tropical trees.

Apple cider vinegar: Found in toners; may be used with water as an “acid rinse” to adjust the skin’s own pH.

Arnica extract: Used as an anti-irritant and to treat muscle soreness and bruising. Arnica extract is a proven carcinogen sometimes found in talc. DO NOT USE THIS INGREDIENT IN FORMULATIONS.

Ascorbic acid: Vitamin C. An antioxidant that is also used as a pH adjuster and as a preservative in cosmetics.

Ascorbyl palmitate: An ester of ascorbic acid. An antioxidant for oils and fats; keeps products fresh and prevents color change. See Ascorbic acid.

Avocado oil: Natural oil from avocados that is rich in protein, vitamins and minerals. An excellent skin conditioner and moisturizer that readily penetrates the skin; nonocclusive. High in vitamins A, D &E, excellent for mature, cracked skin, revitalizing, healing, regenerates cells. Good for massage and facial oils.

Azulene: An essential oil derived from German camomile (Matricaria chamomilla). It is an excellent anti-inflammatory, analgesic, and detoxifier. Extremely calming and soothing to the skin.

Basil oil: Ocimum basilicum belongs to the labiate botanical family, which contains the largest number of medicinal plants. This essential oil contains linalol, thymol, tannins, pinene, and camphor, making it excellent for healing and soothing the skin. It has a stimulating effect on the skin’s circulation and the oil glands, and is also balancing.

Beeswax: Natural wax produced by bees. Used in a wide variety of cosmetics as an emulsifier. Can clog pores if used as a primary ingredient in a formulation.

Bentonite: A naturally occurring clay from volcanic ash. Used as an ingredient in masks and foundation makeup.

Benzaldehyde: Artificial essential oil of almond.

Benzoic acid: Naturally occurring cosmetic preservative from gum benzoin. May be irritating to eyes. See Gum benzoin.

Benzophenone: UVA blocker. Protects against ultraviolet light (from sunlight and fluorescent sources).

Bergamot: Antiseptic, healing (especially eczema, psoriasis, acne) In aromatherapy anti-depressant, appetite regulator.

Beta-carotene: See Carotene.

BHA (butylated hydroxyanisole): A synthetic antioxidant used to prevent oxidation of oils in cosmetics. Some reports of allergic reaction.

BHT (butylated hydroxythaluene): A synthetic antioxidant used to prevent oxidation of oils in cosmetics. Some reports of allergic reaction.

Bismuth oxychloride: A salt derived from the mineral bismuth that imparts a slight sheen, enabling powders to reflect light. A natural antiseptic.

Black currant oil: Good for PMS and skin inflammations, and rich in Vitamin C and gamma-linoleic acid (GLA). Use as carrier oil to 20%.

Bladderwrack extract (seaweed): Derived from the dried thallus (bulbous root) of Fucus vesiculosus, a type of seaweed. It is rich in the same trace minerals, amino acids, and other vital nutrients present in human blood plasma and therefore helps to balance and remineralize the skin.

Borage oil: High in GLA, carrier oil to 25%

Bromelain: An enzyme derived from pineapples. Digests dead protein, as in surface skin cells.

2-Bromo-2-nitropropane-1, 3-diol: Can form carcinogens in cosmetics or on the skin. Often used in shampoos and moisturizers; avoid products with this ingredient. Sometimes called BNPD.

Butylene glycol: A humectant and solvent with some mold-inhibiting ability. Can be irritating if used as more than five percent of a formulation.

Butylparaben: Preservative used to prevent mold, fungus, and bacteria; extends shelf life of cosmetics. Nontoxic and nonirritating at .05 of 1 percent. It may be irritating to the skin if more than 5 percent is used in a formulation.

C12-15 alcohols benzoate: An emollient derived from benzoic acid, a naturally occurring preservative. Very mild.

Cajeput oil: Distilled from the flowers and leaves of the Melaleuca leucadendra tree, which grows in Malaysia. Antiseptic and antiviral, its function is to cleanse and drain toxins and excess oil from the
skin.

Calcium carbonate (chalk): Fine white powder occurring naturally in limestone, oyster shells, and marble. Used in powders and toothpastes. Also used as an antacid, opacifier, whitener, neutralizer, filler.

Calcium silicate: Anticaking and opacifying agent; absorbent. Used in face powders, blushers, and bath salts.

Calendula: Marigold. Topical anti-inflammatory, antioxidant. Commonly used to treat acne and problem skin. Mildly antiseptic, cleansing, soothing, healing, softens and smoothes.

Calendula oil: Antiseptic properties, soothes inflamed skin, especially cuts and bruises. Can be used in skin cream, also used as single carrier oil or in blends with others.

Camomile oil: Distilled from the small yellow flowers of several varieties of camomile, including German (Matricaria chamomilla) and Roman (Anthemis nobilis). German camomile contains a high percentage of azulene, a powerful healer that is extremely soothing to the skin. In aromatherapy, camomile is used to balance female energy and reproductive organs.

Camphor: Distilled from the wood of the camphor tree, Icinnamomum camphora. It is a natural antiseptic and analgesic that helps to calm the skin and reduce redness. Can be absorbed through the skin and is highly toxic. Use in moderation.

Candelilla wax: A hard wax obtained from the candelilla plant, used as an occlusive and binder in lipsticks and creams.

Caprylic acid: Fatty acid used as an emulsifier. Found in milk and sweat and synthesized from coconut oil.

Caprylic/capric triglyceride: Barrier agent, emollient, and solvent used in foundations, eye shadow, creams, and lotions. Oily liquid from plants, vegetable oils, dairy fats, and sweat. Synthesized from
coconut oil or palm kernel oil.

Carbomer: Gelling agent. Synthetic polymer used to thicken, stabilize, and promote shelf life of cosmetics. Can be irritating.

Carmine: A natural pigment derived from the dried female insect, Coccus cacti; used as dye. Used in higher concentrations than 2% of a recipe can cause a really nasty flavor.

Carnauba wax: From the Brazilian wax palm. Used as a barrier agent and texturizer in lipsticks, deodorant sticks, and depilatories.

Carotene (beta-carotene): Present in quantity in a variety of orange/ yellow fruits and vegetables, such as carrots, cantaloupe, and papaya. Carotene has an orange color that oxidizes (fades) when exposed to sunlight. It is converted into vitamin A by the body, and is used for its cellular renewal and healing abilities.

Canageenan: Sometimes called “red algae,” it is derived from the type of seaweed known as “Irish moss.” It is a natural emulsifier and thickening agent and has a soothing effect on the skin.

Carrot oil: Natural extract of carrot used as a colorant. High in betacarotene; healing and soothing to the skin.

Castor oil: From the castor bean. Acts as a barrier agent, emollient, and lubricant. Used in lipsticks and moisturizers.

Cedarwood oil: From red cedar. It is a strong antiseptic and has a calming effect on the skin. Avoid if pregnant.

Cellulose gum: Gum from cellulose, the cell wall and structural component of plants. Used as a thickener and emulsifier in creams and lotions and as a film former in lipsticks.

Ceresin wax: From ozokerite, a naturally occurring mineral wax. Used as an emulsifier, hair conditioner, and thickener.

Ceteareth-20: A compound made from stearyl alcohol (solid alcohols mixed with stearol, a derivative of stearic acid) and coconut or palm oil. Used as an emollient and emulsifier.

Cetearyl alcohol: Not an “alcohol” such as ethyl or rubbing alcohol. It is an emulsifying wax made by combining fatty alcohols derived from vegetable sources. Used as an emulsifier and emollient, it is not
drying to the skin.

Cetyl alcohol: Not an “alcohol” such as ethyl or rubbing alcohol. Yellowish white flakes with no odor or toxicity, it is used as an emollient and emulsifier. When sebum (the moisturizer produced by the body) is synthetically formulated in a laboratory, cetyl alcohol is added as one of the constituents because it closely resembles a component of sebum.

Cetyl lactate: An emollient.

Cetyl palmitate: Synthetic spermaceti.

Chlorophyll: The green component of plants used as a natural colorant in deodorants, creams, and toothpaste.

Cholesterol: Found in all body tissues. Acts as an emulsifying and lubricating agent in cosmetics.

Chondroitin sulfate: A factor of the hyaluronic acid complex that is bioengineered (grown in a yeastlike culture in a laboratory).

Chromium hydroxide green: A coloring agent.

Cinnamon: Antiseptic, stimulant, astringent; Powder is exfoliate. CINNAMON CAN BE EXTREMELY IRRITATING TO THE SKIN. USE IN MODERATION

Citric acid: Found widely in plants and in animal tissues. Adjusts pH and acts as an antioxidant.

Citronella: An herb most commonly used as an insect repellent. In skin care, the essential oil is used to calm sebaceous glands.

Citrus oil extract: A combination of grapefruit, orange, and lemon oils.

Clary Sage: Soothing, relaxing, stress reliever.

Clove bud oil: Antiseptic; in aromatherapy: stress reliever, calmative.

Cocamide DEA: Acts as a foam stabilizer and thickener in shampoos.

Cocamide MEA: Appears most often in shampoos; can be mildly irritating.

Cocoa butter: A saturated fat with emollient properties, making it too heavy for use on facial skin. Frequently appears in suntan preparations. May produce contact sensitivities. Attracts and holds
moisture to skin, softens skin.

Coconut oil: A saturated fat. The fat molecules are large, making the
oil too “heavy” for use on facial skin.

Cocoa Powder: natural colorant

Coffee: Exfolient, soothing aroma.

Collagen: The protein that makes up the fibrous support system from which skin is made. For cosmetic use, collagen is usually derived from cows. New technology has produced collagen from soy and wheat.

Colloidal sulfur: Sulfur is a naturally occurring material. Colloidal sulfur is a mixture of sulfur and acacia, a hydrophilic (water-loving) colloid derived from the African acacia tree. This ingredient is used
for its ability to calm the skin and oil glands. Commonly found in various types of acne preparations, it helps to reduce redness, soreness, and swelling.

Comfrey and Comfrey oil: Comfrey (Symphytum officinale) traditionally has been used to treat wounds and reduce the inflammation associated with sprains and broken bones. The roots and leaves contain allantoin, a substance that helps new skin cells to grow, along with other substances that reduce inflammation and keep skin healthy. Comfrey ointments were often applied to the surface of the skin to heal bruises as well as pulled muscles and ligaments, fractures, sprains, and strains.

Historically, comfrey was also used to treat gastrointestinal illness. However, the herb contains dangerous substances called pyrrolizidine alkaloids that are highly toxic to the liver and can cause death. In July 2001, the U.S. Food and Drug Administration required that dietary supplement manufacturers immediately remove all oral comfrey products from the market. The United Kingdom, Australia, Canada, and Germany also have banned the sale of oral products containing comfrey.

Pyrrolizidine alkaloids are also absorbed through the skin, and harmful amounts may build up in the body. It is recommended that no formulations use comfrey in light of current research.

Comilower extract: Extracted from the common flower, bachelor’s button (Centaurea cyanus). It contains allantoin, potassium, calcium, and vitamins C and K. Because of its soothing and anti-inflammatory properties, it is traditionally used for compresses around the eyes.

Corn starch: A “starchy” white powder derived from corn that is very soothing to the skin. If you have an allergy to corn, you may be allergic to this ingredient.

Cucumber extract: Cucumber is a natural anti-inflammatory and has an extremely soothing effect on the skin.

Cypress oil: Possibly the most sacred, ancient essential oil, it was widely used in religious ceremonies for its spiritually “opening” effect. Distilled from the bark of the cypress tree, it is a natural astringent and restorative. As a vasoconstrictor, it also helps to shrink capillaries and calm cupreous skin.

Deionized water: “Deionization” means that all the ions of soluble salts have been removed. Calcium, magnesium, sulfur, etc., can interfere with formulations and “deactivate” active ingredients.

Dichlorobenzyl alcohol: A type of alcohol used as a preservative. Nondrying to the skin.

Dihydroxyacetone: The “tanning agent” in many self- tanning formulas. It is actually a keto sugar that reacts with protein on the surface of the skin to create the look of a tan. The molecules in this ingredient are too large to penetrate the skin any deeper than the top- most layer. Since it is unable to react in any way with the melanin in the skin, this ingredient does not afford the protection from sun that a real tan would.

Dimethicone: An oil derived from silicone (which is derived from silica, a substance that occurs naturally in rocks and sand). Dimethicone is used to facilitate smooth application of a product, and
helps to soften the skin.

Dimethicone copolyol: A more waterproof form of dimethicone that adheres better to skin and hair.

Diodyl adipate: One component of an ester blend of oils designed to effectively penetrate the skin. It is synthetically derived and nonirritating to the skin or eyes.

Disodium EDTA: Sequestering agent. See EDTA.

EDTA (ethylene diamine tetreacetic acid): A synthetic chemical that removes metals or mineral ions from a solution. Used as a preservative. Can be irritating to the skin if more than 5 percent is
used in a formulation.

Elastin: Animal protein found in the dermal layers of skin that functions to maintain skin elasticity. When applied topically, there is no proof that this highly insoluble protein has the ability to
improve the elasticity of the skin.

Ethylparaben: A preservative. See Parabens.

Evening primrose oil: A source of vitamin E and gamma linoleic acid. Helps to regenerate skin cells. Excellent skin conditioner for dry skin; rich in GLA. Treats eczema. Useful for facial and massage oils, use as 10% or more carrier oil.

Famesol: A sesquiterpene alcohol, occurring naturally in many essential oils such as camomile, rose, citronella, sandalwood, and lemon grass. Deodorant and bacteriostat.

Fluorocarbons: A component of aerosols that destroys the ozone layer of the atmosphere. DO NOT USE. Banned in most countries.

Formaldehyde: A pungent colorless gas. Used as a preservative, disinfectant, germicide, antifungal and embalming fluid. Extremely toxic and irritating to mucous membrane; carcinogenic. Commonly used in nail polish.

Fructose: Sugar found in honey and fruits. Used as flavoring and as a humectant.

Geranium oil: Distilled from the leaves of Pelargonium graveolens. It is a natural antiseptic and astringent that also promotes healing. Geranium has the unusual ability to balance sebum production (because it is an adrenal cortex stimulant), making it valuable for those with combination, dry, dehydrated, or oily skin. Aromatherapists use it as an antidepressant.

Glycerin: A humectant (water-attracting/binding ingredient) that occurs naturally in both vegetable oils and animal oils. The most common source is beef lard, but this type of glycerin is usually mixed with vegetable oils when used in cosmetics.

Glyceryl cocoate: Glycerin by-product of coconut oil. Emulsifier and surfactant.

Glyceryl oleate: Used as an emulsifier in lotions and creams. Contact with eyes may cause irritation.

Glyceryl stearate: An ester used as an emulsifier (to help combine oils with water). It is a clear, oily liquid readily able to penetrate the skin, made by combining glycerin and stearic acid.

Glyceryl stearate SE: Used in shampoos as a pearlizing agent, and as an emulsifier and opacifier in creams and lotions.

Glycols: Glycerin combined with alcohol—for example, propylene glycol.

Grapefruit seed extract: Extracted from grapefruit seeds and used in combination with propylene glycol and glycerin as a preservative, bactericide, and stabilizer.

Grapeseed oil: Ultrafine oil expressed from grape seeds commonly used as a carrier oil in aromatherapy products and as a base for moisturizers. Light and odourless. Mildly astringent; good for acne and oily skin. Contains Vitamin E and linoleic acid. Good for massage and facial oils. Blend or use 100% as carrier oil. Long shelf life.

Green papaya concentrate: Made from raw, green papayas at the time when the papain (proteolytic enzyme) content is at its highest. Once the fruit begins to ripen, its enzyme content decreases substantially. A low-heat extraction and concentration process must be used to protect the active enzyme. It is an excellent free-radical scavenger and cellular renewal ingredient. Papain has the ability to digest protein, and selectively digests only dead skin cells without harming the living ones.

Guaiazulene: Commonly known as azulene. This is a component of the essential oil distilled from the blossoms of the German camomile (Matricaria chamomilla) flowers. It is used for its soothing and calming effect on the skin, and it also has remarkable antibacterial and antiinflammatory abilities. It has a natural bluish color that changes to green as it begins to oxidize or age.

Guanine: Provides luminescence to liquid cosmetics. From fish scales, sugar beets, yeast, and clover seed.

Guar gum: Naturally occurring resin from seeds of an Asian tree. Used as a thickener and emulsifier.

Gum benzoin: Resin from benzoin. Mild natural preservative. Potent sensitizer: USE WITH EXTREME CAUTION IN PREPARATIONS THAT COME IN CONTACT WITH THE SKIN.

Hedorite: Naturally occurring clay used in facial masks to draw out oil. May also draw moisture from skin. Gelling agent and thickener.

Honey: Used as an emollient, humectant, and bacteriostat. Moisturizing, Vitamins B, C, D & E.

Horse chestnut extract: An herb used for its calming effect on the skin.

Horsetail extract: Equisetum arvense, commonly known as horsetail, mare’s tail, shave grass, or bottle brush, is a plant that grows throughout central Europe. It is a natural astringent that is extremely high in silica, which has a softening and smoothing effect on the skin. It also helps to strengthen vein and capillary walls, and it is high in a variety of minerals including potassium, manganese, sulfur, and magnesium.

Hyaluronic acid: A protein occurring in the skin. Known as a water binder, it is able to bind 1000 times its weight in water.

Hybrid safflower oil: The polyunsaturated oil of the herb safflower, which is high in linoleic and linolenic acids. It has a small molecular structure that allows it to be quickly absorbed. Nourishing and soothing to the skin.

Hydrocotyl extract: Hydrocotyl asiatica, commonly known as gotu kola or Indian pennywort, is imported from India. For hundreds of years, this plant has been called “the longevity plant” because of its incredible ability to speed cellular renewal and increase longevity.  Its properties are very similar to those of ginseng. Applied to the skin, it acts as an anti- inflammatory agent; it speeds cell production and therefore is healing. It has a balancing and calming effect and is extremely soothing for aggravated or problem skin.

Hydrolyzed animal protein: A by-product of the beef industry. Helps skin to hold moisture; imparts a glossy sheen to hair. Not safe for vegan products.

Hydroquinone: Used as a skin bleaching agent and as an antioxidant to prevent rancidity. Causes sensitivity to sunlight. Toxic if taken internally.

Hydroxypropyl methylcellulose: A natural gelatin derived from vegetable fibers; used as a thickening agent.

Imidazolidinyl urea: A preservative that may be derived from eithermethanol, wood alcohol or allantoin. Kills harmful microorganisms. Itis nonirritating, nontoxic, and not a formaldehyde donor. If heated to high temperatures, such as over the boiling point, it does produce formaldehyde. Not to be confused with urea from bovine sources.

Iron oxide: A naturally occurring compound of iron and oxygen found ina wide range of colors from black to yellow. Used as a natural colorant.

Isopropyl alcohol: Dissolves oils; has antiseptic properties. Can be drying to the skin if used as a primaryi ngredient in a formulation.

Isopropyl lanolate: An emollient that acts as a wetting agent for cosmetic pigments. Appears as a binder for pressed powders and as a lubricant in lipsticks.

Isopropyl myristate: Used as an emollient and lubricant in preshaves, aftershaves, shampoos, bath oils, antiperspirants, deodorants, and various creams and lotions. More than 5 percent in a formulation can cause skin irritation and clog pores.

Isopropyl palmitate: Used in many moisturizing creams. It forms a thin layer on the skin and easily penetrates.

Jojoba oil: Simondsia chinensis is a thick, liquid wax extracted from the large, vanilla- shaped beans of a bush that grows in the arid climates of Arizona, southern California, and New Mexico. Jojoba oil is strikingly similar to human sebum and is able to effectively penetrate the skin. It is a natural cellular renewal ingredient as well as an excellent moisturizer.  Is an antioxidant and is good for treating acne and dry skin, as well as eczema and psoriasis.

Kaolin: A white clay used to give color and “slip” to powders. It also helps to gently absorb oil on the surface of the skin. Although commonly used in clay facial masks, it may be drying to the skin in this type of product.

Karite nutbutter: Oil from a native African tree. Anti-irritant. Traditionally used as a sunscreen, although the effectiveness as a UV blocker has not been laboratory proven. See also Shea butter.

Kukui oil: Oil from the Hawaiian kukui nut. Very emollient and moisturizing.

Lactic acid: One of the alphahydroxy acids; found in fermented milk. Helps to loosen “intercellular glue” holding dead skin cells onto surface of the skin. Reduces wrinkles and improves skin texture.

Laneth-10 acetate: Derived from lanolin. Acts as an emulsifier and a superfatting agent, and it has some humectant properties.

Lanolin: An oil extracted from the wool of sheep without causing any harm to the animal. It is one of the oils closest to human sebum, making it an excellent moisturizing ingredient. Lanolin is a natural emulsifier and humectant that absorbs water and holds it to the skin to help prevent dryness. Formerly believed to be a common allergen, it is now known to cause allergic reactions in only a very small percentage of people.

Lanolin alcohol: Used as a thickener for shampoos and bath gels. Gives many cosmetics a creamy texture and a high gloss.

Lanolin oil: “Dewaxed lanolin”; acts as a skin moisturizer and reduces stickiness of creams and lotions.  Also found in hair conditioners, fingernail conditioners, and skin cosmetics.

Lauramide DEA: Nonionic surfactant; builds and stabilizes foam in shampoos and bubble baths. Can be drying to the skin. Some people report allergic reactions.

Laureth-23: A nonionic surfactant found in shampoos.

Lavender: Promotes cell regeneration, antiseptic, insect repellent; in aromatherapy it is calming, stress reliever.

Lavender oil: The most versatile of all essential oils. Because of the high percentage of linalool that it contains, lavender oil is excellent for promoting healing and for balancing the skin. It is an antiseptic, analgesic, antibiotic, antidepressant, bactericide, decongestant, and sedative. It helps to reduce scarring and also stimulates the growth of new cells.

Lecithin: A thick, oily substance present in all living cells, whether animal or plant. A natural antioxidant, emulsifier, and emollient. Also a phospholipid with great water-binding ability. (It is able to bind 300 times its weight in water.) Occurs naturally in eggs, milk, sunflower seeds, soybeans, and some vegetables.

Lemon grass oil: An essential oil distilled from the grassy herb of the same name. It is purifying, refreshing, and hydrating.

Lemon oil: An essential oil that is pressed from the outer rind of  It is a mild bleach, which enables it to brighten dull skin and calm redness. It is also a natural astringent, antiseptic, and bactericide with the ability to stimulate the white corpuscles that defend the body.  The essential oil is used to regulate and control fluid accumulation and to bring balance to fluids in skin cells. Lemon also balances the pH of the skin by counteracting acidity
on its surface. It has an uplifting and refreshing effect when inhaled.

Magnesium: Occurs naturally in great quantity in the sea salts from the Dead Sea, some of the most beneficial salts known. Magnesium helps to remineralize and soothe the skin.

Magnesium aluminum silicate: A naturally occurring mineral that is commonly used to emulsify, thicken, and color cosmetics. Because of its enormous molecular size, it is not absorbed through the skin.

Magnesium carbonate: Found in powders and covering preparations.

Magnesium silicate: See Talc.

Magnesium stearate: A compound of magnesia (a naturally occurring white alkaline powder) and stearic acid used as a natural coloring agent.

Manganese: Occurs naturally in great quantity in the sea salts from the Dead Sea, some of the most beneficial salts known. Manganese is soothing and calming to the skin.

Manganese violet: A light violet powder; can be used around the eyes.

Matricaria oil: Known as azulene. An essential oil distilled from flowers of Matricaria chamomilla, or German camomile. One of its major components, chamazulene, is an effective anti-inflammatory that encourages healing. Another component, bisabolol, is a powerful antiseptic and antimicrobial. This oil also contains flavonoids, plant acids, fatty acids, amino acids, polysaccharides, salicylate derivatives, choline, and tannin. Azulene is extremely soothing to the skin and has a distinctive smell, much like fresh hay. Only tiny amounts of this powerful essential oil need to be used for product effectiveness.  Aromatherapists use it as an anti-inflammatory, analgesic, antidepressant, antifungal and disinfectant.  Excellent for the treatment of dry, reddened, burned, or sensitive skin.

Menthol: An antiseptic and anesthetic found in skin lotions and shave creams. Has been shown to cause adverse reactions when applied in high concentrations to the skin. (Also, never use menthol in bath products that are meant to be “soaking” products, as menthol and private parts do not go well together.)

Methylparaben: A derivative of PABA {para-aminobenzoic acid). Used as a preservative with antimicrobial abilities, it prevents the formation of bacteria. Nontoxic and nonirritating at .15 of 1 percent. Note: This ingredient, along with butylparaben and propylparaben, may be irritating to the skin if more than 5 percent is present in a formulation; there are many commercially made cosmetics that have such a high percentage, which explains the commonly held belief that the parabens are sensitizers.

Methyl salicylate: Oil of birch, or oil of wintergreen. Anti-irritant and disinfectant. Main constituent of wintergreen oil or made synthetically. Very cooling and relaxing, but irritating to mucous membrane.   Can be absorbed through the skin, and is highly toxic, even in small quantities.  Use in moderation.

Mica:  A naturally occurring silicate found in a variety of rocks. Easily distinguishable by its shape, it comes in thin, papery sheets, or in powdered form. Mica has a natural iridescence and varies in color from brownish green
and blue to colorless. It is used as a natural colorant and to impart softness to the skin.

Microcrystalline wax: Used as a stiffening and opacifying agent.

Milk: Moisturizing, Vitamins A, D, E & K.

Mineral oil: A by-product of the petroleum industry. A thinner form of petrolatum (i.e., Vaseline). Contrary to its name, this is an inert substance that does not contain any minerals, nutrients, or organic ingredients.  Forms an occlusive layer on the skin that “seals” it; extremely comedogenic when used as a primary ingredient in moisturizers, liquid foundation, and other cosmetics.

Montan wax: Often used in place of carnauba wax.

Mucopolysaccharides: A basic component of the skin. This gelatinous material helps maintain a moist environment for collagen, elastin, and dermal cells and provides support for connective tissue and mucous membrane. Used as a humectant and skin softener in cosmetics.

Neopentyl gbycol dicaprylate/dicaprate: Used as a lubricant; soothing and softening to the skin. It is a compound of neopentyl glycol, which is derived synthetically, and dicaprylate/dicaprates, which are derived from coconut. Caprylates are in the glyceride family and are found in human sebum.

Neroli: Essential oil distilled from the flowers of the bitter orange tree. Used in aromatherapy to ease nervous tension and induce calm.

Nonoxynol-10: A synthetic ingredient used as a dispersing agent to solubilize essential oils. Not to be confused with the spermicide nonoxynol-9.

Oatmeal: Exfollient, healing.

Octoxynol-l: Used as an emulsifier and dispersing agent.

Octyl methoxycinnamate: Sunscreen, UVB blocker. Derived from cinnamon or cassia oil. Less irritating than PABA.

Octyl palmitate: 2-ethylhexyl alcohol reacted with palmitic acid. See Palmitic acid.

Octyl stearate: The ester of 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, a fatty alcohol. Octyl stearate may be derived from tallow or vegetable oils.

Oleic acid: A common constituent of many animal and vegetable fats and, therefore, of most normal diets.  Used in cosmetics as an emollient in creams and lotions. Can be mildly irritating.

Oleyl alcohol: Found in fish oils; has softening and lubricating qualities.

Olive oil: Natural oil used as an emollient in soaps, cleansers, and shampoos. Prevents loss of natural moisture, softens skin and attracts external moisture to the skin.  Treats rheumatism, muscle pains and inflamed skin.  Thick; dilute 10-50% with carrier oils.  Blends well with lavender and rosemary.  Long shelf life.

Oxybenzone: See Benzophenone. Ozakerite: See Ceresin wax.

PABA: See Para-aminobenzoic acid.

Padimate-O: Brand name for PABA.

Palmarosa oil: The essential oil of palmarosa grass (Cymbopogan martini). Exceptional in bringing hydration to the skin, it is also an effective cellular renewal ingredient.

Palmitate: Salt of palmitic acid. Used as an oil in many cosmetics. See Palmitic acid.

Palmitic acid: A natural fatty acid found in palm, cottonseed, peanut, ricebran, sorghum, and other natural vegetable oils. Used as an emulsifier, surfactant and texturizer.

Palm kernel oil: Oil from an African palm nut. When saponified, forms a high-sudsing cleaning agent used in soaps.

Panthenol: Part of the water-soluble vitamin B complex.

Pantothenic acid: The result of a reaction in skin enzymes to panthenol.  Acts as an healing agent.

Papain: An active proteolytic enzyme found in papaya; the most potent form comes from unripened green papaya. Used in exfoliants to dissolve dead skin cells.

Para-aminobenzoic acid (PABA): A sunscreening agent. Possibly phototoxic and photoallergenic; a common sensitizer.

Parabens: Broad-spectrum preservatives derived from plant or petroleum sources. Effective against bacteria, fungus, yeast, and mold. Parabens are some of the safest preservatives, effective over a wide pH scale.

Paraffin: Derived from petroleum. Used as a thickener for cosmetic creams.

Patchouli: Promotes cell regeneration, healing, anti-fungal, antiseptic,  anti-bacterial, insect repellent; Aromatherapy: anti-depressant.

PEG: An abbreviation for polyethylene glycol, a synthetic polymer used as a humectant, emulsifier, emollient, binder, solvent, and stabilizer; protects against oxidation and moisture loss. It is derived from natural gas. Higher numbers indicate more PEG chains are present in the molecule.

PEG-5 ceteth-10 phosphate: A compound of polyethylene glycol, ceteth (from coconut fruit), and ethylene oxide, with phosphoric acid (which is produced synthetically).  Used as an emulsifier.

PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate: A combination of polyethylene glycol and glyceryl cocoate (derived from coconut oil) to form a type of sucrose (sugar) extract. It is a mild cleansing agent and emollient that breaks up fat on the skin’s surface without stripping the skin’s natural oils or causing dryness. Rinses completely from the skin with water. It may be used in place of sodium lauryl or laureth sulfate, which are both drying and stripping for the skin.

PEG-8: A polymer of ethylene oxide. Acts as an emollient, plasticizer, and softener for cosmetics creams and shampoos.

PEG-40 castor oil: A compound made from polyethylene glycol (PEG) and castor oil, an extract of the castor bean. This ingredient is used as a solvent to help disperse other ingredients in a solution.

PEG-100 stearate: Polyethylene glycol combined with stearic acid to form a water-soluble ester used as an emulsifier and emollient; has a softening effect on the skin.

Peppermint oil: An essential oil containing menthol that has a cooling effect on the skin. May be irritating to mucous membrane.   Blends well with bergamot, eucalyptus, geranium, juniper and lavender.  Avoid if pregnant.  May irritate skin – dilute to 1%.

Petrolatum: Also known as petroleum jelly, paraffin jelly, Vaseline. Forms an occlusive barrier on the skin, which limits the skin’s ability to function. Common comedogenic ingredient.

Phenyl mercuric acetate: Used as a preservative in shampoos and eye cosmetics. It is highly toxic if inhaled or swallowed and can cause skin irritation.

Phosphoric acid: Functions as a metal ion sequester and an acidifier.

Polyaminopropyl biguanide: A synthetically derived preservative. It was originally developed by Bausch and Lomb for use in eye products worn by contact lens wearers. It is one of the most gentle, yet effective, antimicrobial preservatives available.

Polysorbate 20: Derived from sorbitol. It is a water-soluble yellowish liquid used as a dispersing agent and stabilizer, and it has a soothing effect on the skin. Some allergic reactions reported.

Potassium hydroxide (caustic potash): Used in the manufacture of liquid soaps and bleaches.

Potassium sodium copper chlorophyllin: A natural colorant derived from chlorophyll.

Propylene glycol: Appears in many cosmetics as a solvent, conditioning agent, and humectant. Can be irritating if more than 5 percent is used in a formulation.

Propylene glycol stearate: Functions as an emollient, thickener, and emulsion stabilizer in creams and lotions.

Propyl gallate: Acts as an antioxidant (preservative).

Propylparaben: A preservative derived from PABA that is widely used in cosmetics. Its fungicidal and antibacterial abilities help prevent yeast and mold. Nontoxic and nonirritating at .05 of 1 percent. (It may be irritating to the skin if more than 5 percent is present in a formulation.)

PVM/MA copolymer: Has thickening, dispersing, and stabilizing properties;  highly irritating to eyes, skin, and mucous membrane.

PVP: Forms a hard, transparent, lustrous film. Used primarily in hair sprays.

Quatemium-15: A synthetic preservative and bactericide derived from ammonium chloride. May be irritating to the skin if more than 5 percent is used in a formulation.

Quatemium-18: Used as a conditioning agent in hair conditioners. It is an eye irritant and can cause contact dermatitis.

Quatemium-19: A substantive (clinging) hair conditioner.

Resorcinol: Irritating to the skin and mucous membrane. Sometimes used as an antidandruff agent because of its antiseptic properties.

Retinoic acid (Retin-A): Vitamin A acid. A chemical skin exfoliant. May irritate skin and cause sun sensitivity.

Retinyl palmitate: Vitamin A. A primary antioxidant vitamin, free-radical scavenger and cellular renewal ingredient (healer).

Rice bran oil: An ingredient rich in vitamin E derived from the bran of rice. It is very similar to wheat germ oil but not as “heavy,” because it has a smaller molecule that is able to more easily penetrate the skin.

Rosemary oil: An essential oil invigorating to the circulation as well as to the psyche.

Rosewood oil: Distilled from the bark of the Aniba rosenodora tree that grows in the Amazon rain forest.  It is high in linalool, making it balancing and healing. It also has antibacterial and analgesic abilities. Most rosewood is now protected, and the oils can only be purchased from licensed agents. It, unfortunately, is becoming like sandalwood, in that indigenous people are being murdered so poachers can get access to this rare plant.  Ethically, I believe you should avoid this oil unless your supplier can prove that it is sourced from the licensed broker.