crème de caviar pour le visage
Working on testing formulations with some new to the market biological actives. This one is a decadently rich night cream that contains Laboratoires Serobiologiques actives.
- Complex Caviar: extracted elements of fish roe and caviar combined with oligo-peptides from actin and fucus vesiculosus extract.
- Phytocoothetm: canola phytosterols with moisturizing and skin barrier strengthening effect.
- Arganyltm: flavonoids extracted from leaves of the argan tree that inhibit collagenase to protect collagen from destruction.
- HSP Balance: germinated rye seed extract enhances the skin’s capacity for self-defense against environmental stress.
Ingredients | INCI | % | Function |
Phase One | |||
Emulgade® PL 68/50 Cutina® GMS-V Cegesoft® C24 Cetiol® Sensoft Cegesoft® PS 6 Phytosoothe® LS 9766 Myritol® 312 Cosmedia® SP |
Cetearyl Glucoside (and) Glyceryl Stearate Ethylhexyl Palmitate Propylheptyl Caprylate Vegetable Oil Brassica Campestris Caprylic/Capric Sodium Polyacrylate |
3.00 1.00 5.00 3.00 3.00 2.00 2.00 1.00 |
O/W cream base SE Consistency giving factor Emollient Emollient Emollient Active Emollient Sensorial Polymer |
Phase Two | |||
Water Glycerin Keltrol CGT Elestab® 388 Eumulgin® SG HSP Balance® LS 9587 |
Water Glycerin Xanthan Gum Propylene glycol (and) Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate Secale Cereale (Rye) Seed Extract (and) |
66.1 5.00 0.10 2.50
0.70 1.00 |
Moisturizer Thickener Preservative
Co-emulsifier O/W
Active
|
Phase Three | |||
Arganyl® LS 9781
Complex® Caviar LS 9747
Citric Acid 10% Perfume |
Water (and) Glycerin (and) Water (and) Glycerin (and) Citric Acid Fragrance |
2.00
2.00
0.40
0.20 |
ctive
Active
pH adjustment fragrance |
PROCEDURE:
-
Heat the oil phase I to 75-80°C and mix homogeneously.
-
Heat phase II to 75-80°C and add to the oil phase while stirring.
-
Allow the emulsion to cool while stirring in such a way that it remains in continual motion.
-
Avoid incorporation of air. If necessary homogenize with a suitable dispersion unit (e.g. Ultra Turrax) approx. 55°C.
-
Add phase III below 40°C while mixing. Stir while cooling until room temperature.
The result is a rich and thick cream that should have a shelf life of about 24 months if properly stored.