Cosmetic Ingredients F-H

A continuation of  a list and brief definition of commonly used ingredients in cosmetic formulations. Note: allergies may occur with the use of any chemical, essential oil, herb or spice. It is advisable to test a small area of the skin prior to using the product in the shower of bath. Many of these ingredients are used in major formulations, but are becoming more available for the hobbyist and small formulator.

Famesol: A sesquiterpene alcohol, occurring naturally in many essential oils such as camomile, rose, citronella, sandalwood, and lemon grass. Deodorant and bacteriostat.

Fluorocarbons: A component of aerosols that destroys the ozone layer of the atmosphere. DO NOT USE. Banned in most countries.

Formaldehyde: A pungent colorless gas. Used as a preservative, disinfectant, germicide, antifungal and embalming fluid. Extremely toxic and irritating to mucous membrane; carcinogenic. Commonly used in nail polish.

Fructose: Sugar found in honey and fruits. Used as flavoring and as a humectant.

Geranium oil: Distilled from the leaves of Pelargonium graveolens. It is a natural antiseptic and astringent that also promotes healing. Geranium has the unusual ability to balance sebum production (because it is an adrenal cortex stimulant), making it valuable for those with combination, dry, dehydrated, or oily skin. Aromatherapists use it as an antidepressant.

Glycerin: A humectant (water-attracting/binding ingredient) that occurs naturally in both vegetable oils and animal oils. The most common source is beef lard, but this type of glycerin is usually mixed with vegetable oils when used in cosmetics.

Glyceryl cocoate: Glycerin by-product of coconut oil. Emulsifier and surfactant.

Glyceryl oleate: Used as an emulsifier in lotions and creams. Contact with eyes may cause irritation.

Glyceryl stearate: An ester used as an emulsifier (to help combine oils with water). It is a clear, oily liquid readily able to penetrate the skin, made by combining glycerin and stearic acid.

Glyceryl stearate SE: Used in shampoos as a pearlizing agent, and as an emulsifier and opacifier in creams and lotions.

Glycols: Glycerin combined with alcohol—for example, propylene glycol.

Grapefruit seed extract: Extracted from grapefruit seeds and used in combination with propylene glycol and glycerin as a preservative, bactericide, and stabilizer.

Grapeseed oil: Ultrafine oil expressed from grape seeds commonly used as a carrier oil in aromatherapy products and as a base for moisturizers. Light and odourless. Mildly astringent; good for acne and oily skin. Contains Vitamin E and linoleic acid. Good for massage and facial oils. Blend or use 100% as carrier oil. Long shelf life.

Green papaya concentrate: Made from raw, green papayas at the time when the papain (proteolytic enzyme) content is at its highest. Once the fruit begins to ripen, its enzyme content decreases substantially. A low-heat extraction and concentration process must be used to protect the active enzyme. It is an excellent free-radical scavenger and cellular renewal ingredient. Papain has the ability to digest protein, and selectively digests only dead skin cells without harming the living ones.

Guaiazulene: Commonly known as azulene. This is a component of the essential oil distilled from the blossoms of the German camomile (Matricaria chamomilla) flowers. It is used for its soothing and calming effect on the skin, and it also has remarkable antibacterial and antiinflammatory abilities. It has a natural bluish color that changes to green as it begins to oxidize or age.

Guanine: Provides luminescence to liquid cosmetics. From fish scales, sugar beets, yeast, and clover seed.

Guar gum: Naturally occurring resin from seeds of an Asian tree. Used as a thickener and emulsifier.

Gum benzoin: Resin from benzoin. Mild natural preservative. Potent sensitizer: USE WITH EXTREME CAUTION IN PREPARATIONS THAT COME IN CONTACT WITH THE SKIN.

Hedorite: Naturally occurring clay used in facial masks to draw out oil. May also draw moisture from skin. Gelling agent and thickener.

Honey: Used as an emollient, humectant, and bacteriostat. Moisturizing, Vitamins B, C, D & E.

Horse chestnut extract: An herb used for its calming effect on the skin.

Horsetail extract: Equisetum arvense, commonly known as horsetail, mare’s tail, shave grass, or bottle brush, is a plant that grows throughout central Europe. It is a natural astringent that is extremely high in silica, which has a softening and smoothing effect on the skin. It also helps to strengthen vein and capillary walls, and it is high in a variety of minerals including potassium, manganese, sulfur, and magnesium.

Hyaluronic acid: A protein occurring in the skin. Known as a water binder, it is able to bind 1000 times its weight in water.

Hybrid safflower oil: The polyunsaturated oil of the herb safflower, which is high in linoleic and linolenic acids. It has a small molecular structure that allows it to be quickly absorbed. Nourishing and soothing to the skin.

Hydrocotyl extract: Hydrocotyl asiatica, commonly known as gotu kola or Indian pennywort, is imported from India. For hundreds of years, this plant has been called “the longevity plant” because of its incredible ability to speed cellular renewal and increase longevity.  Its properties are very similar to those of ginseng. Applied to the skin, it acts as an anti- inflammatory agent; it speeds cell production and therefore is healing. It has a balancing and calming effect and is extremely soothing for aggravated or problem skin.

Hydrolyzed animal protein: A by-product of the beef industry. Helps skin to hold moisture; imparts a glossy sheen to hair. Not safe for vegan products.

Hydroquinone: Used as a skin bleaching agent and as an antioxidant to prevent rancidity. Causes sensitivity to sunlight. Toxic if taken internally.

Hydroxypropyl methylcellulose: A natural gelatin derived from vegetable fibers; used as a thickening agent.